Pilot Mountain

By bpayst - Posted on 31 December 2009

Region: 
Northern Piedmont
Season: 
Spring
Season: 
Fall
Season: 
Winter
Type of climbing: 
Sport
Type of climbing: 
Bouldering
Type of climbing: 
Top rope

Easy access and pleasant winter temps make Pilot one of the most popular crags in the state. Top ropes are easy to set up from fixed anchors on most climbs and there are bolted lead climbs as well. Please make sure to descend via the 3 Bears Gulley (look for the sign) and be considerate of others, particularly non-climbers, and don't block the trail at the base with gear.

Directions

From Winston Salem, follow Highway 52 North. Look for signs for Pilot Mountain State park. Take that exit, turn left and follow the signs to the park entrance just down the road on the left. Follow the park road all the way to the top and park in the back of the parking area near the overlook to be closest to the trail. Register at the kiosk and follow the Ledge Springs trail down into the woods. The most common descent is at the Three Bears Gully (there is now a sign that marks this descent), use caution on the descent, it can be slippery at the top. The gully puts you at the Three Bears / Any Major Dude area, the Amphitheater is to climber's right from here and Eight Ball is to climber's left.

Camping

Camping is available in Piot Mountain State Park.

More info about this area

From Marshall Ellis, Mountain Regions Biologist, North Carolina Division of Parks and Recreation:

The question of access to the Big Pinnacle at Pilot Mountain gets asked quite often, both by climbers and non-climbers. The Big Pinnacle has been closed to visitor access since the late 1970s when the old staircase finally gave way and was dismantled, and over the intervening years, the division's policy has been to keep that area closed to visitor access. There are a number of reasons for that, both operationally and ecologically. Constructing and maintaining an access and then safeguarding the public once they were on top would inevitably lead to extensive railings, stairs, safety barriers, etc. that would detract significantly from the local views of the Big Pinnacle. All things equal, we've opted to keep that view as natural as possible.

From a climbing perspective, the decision was made early on to limit climbing in the park to the cliffs along the Ledge Springs Trail. As it happens, the Big Pinnacle and the Ledge Springs cliffs share a number of cliff-dwelling species and natural community types, so basically, an ecological trade was made that sacrificed the cliffside species and natural communities along the Ledge Springs cliffs in exchange for preserving those on the Big Pinnacle. We've made similar trade-offs at all of the other climbing parks as well in an attempt to accommodate recreation and resource protection.

A new guide for Pilot Mountain is now available. This guide was developed because the most recent guidebook covering Pilot Mountain has been out of print for several years. The new guide includes several enhancements including route photos and route-quality ratings.This guide is available for free. You can download the guide from this site or pick up a printed copy at the Pilot Mountain ranger's station.
There are two options for downloading the guide. The only difference between these versions is the order of the pages in the guide.

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