Sauratown

State: 
North Carolina
Guides and Info : 

Area rep: Kristi Cooke [email protected]

 

Carolina Climbers Coalition has reached an agreement with the owners of Sauratown, previously one of the most popular winter destinations in the NC Piedmont. Home to a number of classic trad lines and a number of excellent sport climbs, the area has been closed for many years due to a variety of factors. If you've never climbed at Sauratown it's the best winter cragging in the Piedmont - steep and pumpy on incredible rock. If you used to climb there and haven't for the 5+ years it's been closed, welcome back it's just like your forearms remember it! 

What to Expect

A mix of sport and trad routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.12, with a concentration of routes in the 5.10-5.11 grades. Steep and pumpy, you should be comfortable on the grade of any particular route. Much of the fixed hardware has been replaced and upgraded, but older bolts are still found on some routes. The sport routes may have longer spacing between the bolts than you may be used to (more like the New than the Red) and a stick clip is handy for some of the first bolts. 

Access Issues

IMPORTANT! Access will ONLY be allowed from December 1 to March 31st and is 7 days a week. Dogs are NOT allowed. Access is available starting 8 AM. Please do not jeapordize all of the hard work that has gone into this by trying to go to Sauratown at any other time. The cliff remains closed except for those times.  Don't be the person who gets the gate slammed in our face. Seriously, don't.

Many thanks to Camp Hanes, who has partnered with us on this and to the climbers who humped stainless steel up the trail and replaced 30+ bolts and anchors, flagged trail and cleaned up the base of the cliff. 

There is a fee associated with this agreement that the CCC is paying to get everyone access to the property. Please consider making a donation to help us recover those funds so we can use them for future projects.

Please note the following list of things you're NOT allowed to do at Sauratown per the agreement with Camp Hanes:

  • Bring you dogs or other pet!
  • hunting
  • use or discharge of firearms or explosives of any kind
  • firewood cutting or gathering
  • disturbing, gathering or removing, plants, rocks, cultural artifacts or other materials
  • fishing
  • swimming
  • use of manmade climbing platforms or walls
  • boating
  • use of any intoxicating substances

    Directions

    • Access is via Camp Hanes, 1225 Camp Hanes Road King, NC 27021  (note that construction on Brown Rd. will likely continue through mid-December, there is a detour or you can use the entry to YMCA Camp Rd. off of NC 66)
    • When you enter the camp - drive SLOWLY! Respect the camp facilities and other visitors.
    • Parking is by the Baker Center - follow the main road past the lake and take the 1st right and park in that lot. Overflow parking if that lot fills up can be found next to cabins 1-4 and the office. 
    • From the lot, cross the field headed towards the cliff and ropes course and pick up the mountain trail with blue signs. Follow that up the hill and take a right at the trail sign when you come to it. Follow that along on old road bed for a short distance and then look for a trail that heads up and left  (there should be flagging marking the turn). Continue up that trail and it will take you to the cliff near the base of Stokes County Monkey Trial. Where the trail meets the first rock bands, there is a new trail that cuts right and skirts the base of the cliff. This trail takes you to the end of the climbing area near the route "Beer Bellies" and can be used to avoid the step across the open area in the cliff on the upper trail. The hike is fairly steep and takes about 30 minutes.
    • Please fill out a waiver at the kiosk near the camping platforms
    • Please carpool if possible.

    Camping 

    Free camping is available on the weekends only, please call the camp in advance at (336) 983-3131 to let them know you want to camp. There are platforms and tent sites available