Land Manager: State of NC, Hanging Rock State Park
Area Rep: Brian Payst [email protected]
Amazing quartzite in the NC piedmont. With numerous classic routes, including one of the best 5.7s in the state (Zoo View), Moore's is an excellent destination for the trad climber. Routes at Moore's require a cool head, the ability to place good gear in sometime less than obvious placements, and the strength to hold on while doing it. Moore's is also home to a host of fantastic boulder problems with several distinct areas and many classic lines.
What to Expect
The descents are not obvious at times, but there are fixed rap stations located at strategic spots or you can walk down the trail and the gully between the amphitheater and the Dolphin Head area.
Climbers visiting Moore's Wall can now enjoy a nice parking lot that was installed by Hanging Rock State Park. The parking lot was designed specifically for climbers. The parking lot can accomodate 15-20 cars, so take care not to overwhelm its capacity, park to maximize the available space and carpool from the Torys Den parking area if needed.
As with all NC State Parks with climbing, be sure to fill out a permit and keep your copy with you. Please repect the closure times posted on the sign in the parking lot and plan to be back at your car before the area closes. Please be considerate of others (climbers and non-climbers alike) and be sure to keep your dog/cat/monkey on a leash.
From Winston Salem take Hwy 52N to exit 122 (Moore - RJR Dr). Head east until you hit Rt 66 and take a left. Follow Rt 66 to Moore's Spring Rd and take a right. A half a mile later you'll take a right onto Mickey Rd, then a right onto Charlie Young Rd. Go 3/4 mile (passing the parking area for Tory's Den), and take a right onto Hooker Farm Rd. where Charlie Young Rd ends. Follow this for 1/2 mile or less and take the first right on Climbing Access Rd. Parking is found a short distance beyond the right turn. The parking area is gravel and is on level ground. There is an outhouse and water available at the parking area.
Note about parking: There has been a recent surge in popularity at Moore's and it has started to impact the parking. We have been talking with the park about expanding the lot, but that's going to be a while. In the interim, here's some things you can do to help:
- Park nose/tail-in and close to the vehicle next to you
- Pull in to the first available spot rather than having empty space around your vehicle
- Park at Tory's Den if the parking area is full (or climb somewhere else) - one person can drop the others and gear and walk back up
- Do not park on the side of Hooker Farm Rd. (the paved rd. before the climber access) as this is starting to cause issues with the people who live up there
- Drive slowly, especially on the gravel
Camping is available in Hanging Rock State park. Please do not camp in the parking area.
Routes are Moore's are covered in Carolina Rocks - the Piedmont. There is also a bouldering guide available in print-on-demand form and a comprehensive bouldering guide availble at local shops or online.